Oyster Stacks |
I don't even know where to start
after the incredible weekend I have just had!
I have wanted to swim with a
whale shark for about 5 years now having seen the photos of a work colleague
that were mind boggling. Beginning this blog, I decided I would do at least a
couple of the big things and this was certainly one of the biggest dreams.
Whale sharks are the worlds
largest fish and can be up to 12 metres long (I'm struggling to get past 1.5!).
In terms of size it rivals some of the largest dinosaurs in weight. In short,
it's one massive fish.
Whale sharks are found in
temperate waters around the world and one of the best places to see them is
Ningaloo Reef, off the Exmouth Cape in Western Australia. Exmouth is 1200km
north of Perth (the nearest capital city) and was established as a US Navy Base
in World War II as a communications hub for submarines.
My first concern was the flying.
Being a somewhat apprehensive flyer I was a little hesitant about the propeller
planes that service regional Australia. However, excitement beats fear and so I
found myself on my way to Perth. A couple of small meltdowns later (and some
encouraging text messages!) and I was settled in my Dash-8 flying over the
outback on my way to Exmouth.
Aerial outback views |
Once I had recovered from
my Flying Freak-Out, I managed to properly appreciate the aerial view.
Incredible patterns in the earth made me wonder how Aboriginal Art could so
closely resemble these, when they had never seen this perspective. The colours,
contrasts and accidental designs were breathtaking. It was the first of many
"I can't believe I'm here" moments.
Aerial Outback Views |
Arriving at Learmonth airport, I
was quickly greeted by the local bus driver who happily agreed to drop me at
the Exmouth Cape Holiday Park, where memories of being a child came flooding
back. Caravaners, backpackers and weekend holiday makers all together enjoying
the tropical sun and the chance to be out of the city.
Some time by the pool and under
the palm trees washed the city stress away.
The next morning I was up at the
crack of dawn ready to go, and what a stunning day it was (not exactly missing
Sydney Winter!).
Sunrise over the homestead |
I had booked with Ocean Eco
Adventures (http://www.oceanecoadventures.com.au/index.htm) on the
recommendation of a friend, with one of the selling points being that they have
their own spotter plane, a huge advantage to getting time with the sharks
Sam and Nat arrived to pick us
up, and chatted about the local history while we made our way down to the boat
ramp.
Hopping on the boat I was lucky
enough to sit myself next Cindy and Brian an really fun couple from Perth.
Brian the Gadget King had more camera equipment than Steven Spielberg and made
my disposable underwater camera look positively archaic.
Brian and Cindy kindly offered to
take some pics for me and in the end I took charge of one of the Go-Pros doing
my best to get some decent footage while madly swimming.
Our first stop was a snorkel site
inside the lagoon and it was here that we got the first of many marine
encounters. Following a little Hawksbill Turtle, I turned around to see a White
Tip reef shark lurking around. I may have been slightly more freaked out except
he seemed more scared of me!
After a little warm up snorkel,
it was time to head through the passage and out to find us some whale sharks.
Having been warned that it can sometimes take all day, we were all set to
settle back and enjoy the sun. Five minutes later a report of a shark and it
was all action stations, flippers and goggles flying as we all madly dashed to
get ourselves ready. I won't lie. I had a little flutter of nerves knowing I
was jumping in with a fish that can have a mouth 1.5 meters wide and could very
easy swallow me whole. My Dad's brilliant advice was to be careful it didn't
burp and send me out to sea.
Head down, John trying to keep us
in some kind of order and trying to avoid being kicked in the head by some of
the more anxious swimmers we instantly got a look at these graceful giants of
the ocean. It sounds corny but it really was one of those magical moments and
one I'm so glad I decided to "Tick off".
After the madness of getting in
and out numerous times we were told that Ant (our skipper) had a surprise for
us. Thinking perhaps it was a Manta ray we were pretty excited.
When we looked up and saw a trio
humpback whales, we were elated. When the calf started playing
and jumping (otherwise known as breaching) we felt like we'd hit the jackpot.Was he teaching me how to back flip?!
Humpback Whale breaching |
With numerous swims with the
Whale Sharks, the turtles, sharks, humpback whales and a dugong for good
measure it was one of the best days I've ever had.
Great people, brilliant crew and
stunning weather. It really was a magical as I had hoped.
As it turns out my amazing
weekend wouldn't end there.
Brian and Cindy decided to stay
for another day and we headed out along the Cape to hike Yardi Creek and Mandu
Mandu Gorge, and a welcome swim at Turquoise Bay, where the reef is a swim from
the beach and teeming with marine life. The drift means you don't even need to
swim!
A couple of sunsets (with requisite wine!) up at the lighthouse and I was pretty set never to come.
Yardi Creek Gorge |
Sunset at the Lighthouse |
Sunset Drinks |
Number 78 - really was one of the most magical moments (and weekends!) of my life.
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