Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Number 78 - Whale Sharks (and then some!!)

Oyster Stacks



I don't even know where to start after the incredible weekend I have just had!

I have wanted to swim with a whale shark for about 5 years now having seen the photos of a work colleague that were mind boggling. Beginning this blog, I decided I would do at least a couple of the big things and this was certainly one of the biggest dreams.

Whale sharks are the worlds largest fish and can be up to 12 metres long (I'm struggling to get past 1.5!). In terms of size it rivals some of the largest dinosaurs in weight. In short, it's one massive fish.

Whale sharks are found in temperate waters around the world and one of the best places to see them is Ningaloo Reef, off the Exmouth Cape in Western Australia. Exmouth is 1200km north of Perth (the nearest capital city) and was established as a US Navy Base in World War II as a communications hub for submarines.




My first concern was the flying. Being a somewhat apprehensive flyer I was a little hesitant about the propeller planes that service regional Australia. However, excitement beats fear and so I found myself on my way to Perth. A couple of small meltdowns later (and some encouraging text messages!) and I was settled in my Dash-8 flying over the outback on my way to Exmouth.

Aerial outback views
 Once I had recovered from my Flying Freak-Out, I managed to properly appreciate the aerial view. Incredible patterns in the earth made me wonder how Aboriginal Art could so closely resemble these, when they had never seen this perspective. The colours, contrasts and accidental designs were breathtaking. It was the first of many "I can't believe I'm here" moments.







Aerial Outback Views


Arriving at Learmonth airport, I was quickly greeted by the local bus driver who happily agreed to drop me at the Exmouth Cape Holiday Park, where memories of being a child came flooding back. Caravaners, backpackers and weekend holiday makers all together enjoying the tropical sun and the chance to be out of the city.
 
Pool time - Solar Charging


Some time by the pool and under the palm trees washed the city stress away.

The next morning I was up at the crack of dawn ready to go, and what a stunning day it was (not exactly missing Sydney Winter!). 
Sunrise over the homestead



 I had booked with Ocean Eco Adventures (http://www.oceanecoadventures.com.au/index.htm) on the recommendation of a friend, with one of the selling points being that they have their own spotter plane, a huge advantage to getting time with the sharks
Sam and Nat arrived to pick us up, and chatted about the local history while we made our way down to the boat ramp.

Hopping on the boat I was lucky enough to sit myself next Cindy and Brian an really fun couple from Perth. Brian the Gadget King had more camera equipment than Steven Spielberg and made my disposable underwater camera look positively archaic.


Brian and Cindy kindly offered to take some pics for me and in the end I took charge of one of the Go-Pros doing my best to get some decent footage while madly swimming.

Our first stop was a snorkel site inside the lagoon and it was here that we got the first of many marine encounters. Following a little Hawksbill Turtle, I turned around to see a White Tip reef shark lurking around. I may have been slightly more freaked out except he seemed more scared of me!



After a little warm up snorkel, it was time to head through the passage and out to find us some whale sharks. Having been warned that it can sometimes take all day, we were all set to settle back and enjoy the sun. Five minutes later a report of a shark and it was all action stations, flippers and goggles flying as we all madly dashed to get ourselves ready. I won't lie. I had a little flutter of nerves knowing I was jumping in with a fish that can have a mouth 1.5 meters wide and could very easy swallow me whole. My Dad's brilliant advice was to be careful it didn't burp and send me out to sea.


Head down, John trying to keep us in some kind of order and trying to avoid being kicked in the head by some of the more anxious swimmers we instantly got a look at these graceful giants of the ocean. It sounds corny but it really was one of those magical moments and one I'm so glad I decided to "Tick off".

  
After the madness of getting in and out numerous times we were told that Ant (our skipper) had a surprise for us. Thinking perhaps it was a Manta ray we were pretty excited.

When we looked up and saw a trio humpback whales, we were elated. When the calf started playing and jumping (otherwise known as breaching) we felt like we'd hit the jackpot.Was he teaching me how to back flip?!



Humpback Whale breaching





With numerous swims with the Whale Sharks, the turtles, sharks, humpback whales and a dugong for good measure it was one of the best days I've ever had.

Great people, brilliant crew and stunning weather. It really was a magical as I had hoped.




Making Whale Shark faces

As it turns out my amazing weekend wouldn't end there.

Brian and Cindy decided to stay for another day and we headed out along the Cape to hike Yardi Creek and Mandu Mandu Gorge, and a welcome swim at Turquoise Bay, where the reef is a swim from the beach and teeming with marine life. The drift means you don't even need to swim!

A couple of sunsets (with requisite wine!) up at the lighthouse and I was pretty set never to come.
Yardi Creek Gorge




Sunset at the Lighthouse


Sunset Drinks




Number 78 - really was one of the most magical moments (and weekends!) of my life.

 


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